San Francisco ...

Finally - after months of planning - it's happening. Left Heathrow this morning and now somewhere over Canada heading for San Francisco.

For the last two hours, we've been flying over white stuff. First it was the most amazing mountains and glaciers as we crossed the coast of Greenland; now it's ice as far as the eye can see as we fly over the north of Canada. It's been a strange experience leaving the UK late morning and - as our body clocks have been steadily ticking towards early evening - to have travelled through the dark and now look out on brilliant sunshine.

It's a long way to SF, over three hours still to go and we've been in the air for more than seven. If all goes to plan, we should land at around 1:30 and then it's something called the BART (Bay Area Rail Transport) which is a local train to take us to Union Square and the hotel.

Arrived at Chancellor Hotel. Good location and everything you need from a hotel without being over the top. In typical American style, every effort is made to cater for the needs of the guest ... including a choice of twelve different types of pillow! No word of a lie, see the second San Francisco photo. The range of pillows available includes a five foot body pillow, one designed by NASA and a surround sound option. My favourite (Helen) is the "satin beauty - poly fibre filled designed to reduce pressure on facial bones. Silky satin cover helps maintain hairdos overnight". I will have to go and check whether Tony booked one of these.

Out for a fantastic meal at a restaurant called Chez Pennis in Berkley. Not cheap but, what the hell, we're on holiday,

Really struggling now, local clocks saying half seven in the evening and body clocks saying it's four o'clock tomorrow! Must be time for bed.

The next day started foggy as it seems most days do in SF. Plans to head off in search of coffee were subverted by Helen's decision to join the techno revolution and buy an iPad. A happy hour spent in the Apple shop. The guy who set up Helen's new toy would have spent longer if we had wanted, he just seemed deliriously happy to be talking about anything Apple!

New toy purchased, we headed off to North Beach mainly to find a coffee shop recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. We took the cable car up to North Beach and we were both glad we did as the hills get pretty serious heading north; think Steve McQueen in Bullitt! The cable cars are amazing;they seem so old and primitive yet work so well (guess that's why they are still in operation). Three guys operate them: one on the main controls which consist of two large levers and a foot pedal; another guy at the back operating a brake; and a third who seems to check tickets. They were such showmen with quick fire banter in all directions yet were so helpful. Over elaborate ringing of the bell seems part of the show too. It seems that everyone is keen for you to enjoy the experience that is San Francisco.

First stop Cafe Trieste and an introduction to the hippy world that still lingers on in SF. Everywhere there were great characters: bare chested guy in baggy pants with bells and long beard; guy who opens the cafe door to shout "Same day, same old shit!"; elderly women in long flowing skirt and beads. All this plus good coffee and lively conversation. Moving on from there we wandered around looking for somewhere to eat and happened on a small bar where Helen had a chicken salad and I had a meatball focaccia sandwich (made Subway's version so average) plus a glass of Anchor Steam beer - not difficult to see which on of us is sticking to the healthy eating regime! Moving on again, we headed up some steep hills and steps to the Coit Tower, a folly built by Mrs Coit in memory of the fire crews of SF. Apparently she followed them to every fire she could and even left money to every fireman in her will - a sort of fire service groupie! She was even buried dressed in a fireman's uniform. Views from the top of the tower almost defy description with bridges and islands peeking out of the legendary SF fog. Took a picture of what seemed to be a small island peeking into clear air; later we saw it was a massive container ship and the bit sticking out of the fog was the very top of the bridge! Very excited to see the Golden Gate Bridge in the distance in characteristic shrouded-in-fog mode. The lift operator in the Coit Tower apologised for the fog but we thought it was magical.

It's hard to describe the experience of so many different contexts in such a small area. One minute it's a totally Chinese Chinatown with shops where everything is written in Chinese and fishtanks jam packed with large fish just waiting to be sold and cooked; next minute it's a book store where Jack Kerouac met up with Alan Ginsberg. So much history from the late 50s and the love and peace era of the 60s.

The night should have been rounded off with a trip to the Boom Boom Room, described as "an authentic relic from the jumping post-WWII years of Filmore St". Bands play variously blues, soul and New Orleans funk ... what a shame body clocks got in the way and we only just managed a trip to a diner round the corner. We sat like two zombies trying to remember what knives and forks were for; at that point we gave in and opted for an early night.

An early start due to not sleeping well; body clocks still messing things up. Decided to head for Golden Gate Park (once Tony had got his sleep-deprived head round the fact that Golden Gate Park is nothing to do with the Golden Gate Bridge - bloody well should be I say!). Bus journey towards Haight with the intention of going straight to the Park. Fortunately, the brains of the outfit had spotted Kate's Diner which we passed on the bus so we leaped off for a well earned breakfast. Actually leaping off was an exaggeration - we had to be shown how to open the bus door before we could get off! Breakfast for the healthy one was porridge, sorry, oatmeal as it is called here, complete with banana, raisins, strawberry and maple syrup. The unhealthy one went for corned beef hash with two eggs (easy over of course) plus toast and copious quantities of strong black stewed filter coffee ... yummee all round!

Rather than get the bus, we strolled along Haight Street, past glorious Victorian style mansions built after the 1906 earthquake, straight back into the summer of love 1967. Tony was reliving his youth. Everywhere there were shops selling hippy garments, strange smoking devices and peace and love. It was brilliant! Grungy looking young things and older ones who probably have never straightened out from '67 were all around us. Tie - dye and dreads are definitely de rigeur around here. We looked a bit out of place in our sensible walking shoes and North Face jackets. There was one guy sitting at the entrance to the park surrounded by all his possessions and, judging by the speed of his actions and the strange looking tobacco he was rolling, he was ripe for picking by the Police but they just rode past him. Bare-footed hippy types were stretched out asleep in the sun on Hippy Hill in the Park. It really was from another time..

The park was enormous. It took us about 5 hours to walk the length of it down to the Ocean. The highlights of the Park were the AIDS Memorial Grove which, they were getting ready for World AIDS Day tomorrow and which was one of the most moving places either of us have ever been to; the Japanese Tea Garden complete with pagodas and raked garden; the number of people who stopped to help us when we stood staring at the map; and the breathtaking sight of the Pacific Ocean as we emerged from the trees. Serious waves for serious surfers and mile upon mile of misty, windy shoreline. This was all capped off by two glasses of beer in the micro-brewery overlooking the beach. Bliss!

San Franciscans really are the most helpful, caring people. It would be easy to adopt an English cynical attitude and laugh at the accent and the things overheard. Forget that: they are just being themselves and wanting you to have a great time in their city.

Tony went for another meat feast lunch- a Grey Liner sandwich with about 4 inches of ham, beef and cheese. The afternoon was capped off by a coastal path walk (to Lands End ... !) past the tsunami evacuation signs and around the corner for another stunning view of that famous bridge. This is a magical city.

Evening found us in a bar round the corner from the hotel. Listening to a band of ageing hippy rockers playing R&B covers and to the sassiest of bar staff who were entertainment in themselves. Don't quite know what it is about American bars but they are very different from a British pub. Maybe it's that everything is focused around the bar where you are actually encouraged to sit. Live music, great bartenders, good beer: what a way to end a great day. Walked back to the hotel past a street beggar with a sign "why lie. I just want beer".


A day of amazing views, aching feet and sand in just about every orifice exposed to the wind! Took the cable car to the north end of SF and walked west towards the Golden Gate Bridge. Within two minutes of setting off, Tony saw his first ever seal; so excited! The path took us past old military ports, forts and an airstrip and ended under the GGB. On the way we got great views of the Bridge whenever the howling wind and blinding sand would allow it. Stopped near the Bridge at a place called the Warming Hut where we fed the inner selves with porridge and coffee. Bliss! I (H) didn't speak for about half an hour as I was too interested in a conversation a woman sat opposite us was having with her life coach. She suggested her client had facial surgery. I would have punched her.Onwards and upwards and we arrived on the Bridge itself. We were going to hire bikes and ride across but the strong winds put us off (given Tony's vertigo and fear of heights over water, probably not a bad thing). Walked a third of the way across, read the counselling help signs and ran back for shelter from the wind. It's an iconic site but we were cold and battered.

Set off back and realised just how far we had walked to get to the Bridge. Winds had not put off the kite surfers though who were flying down the bay. Other than us, everyone who was not kite surfing were running or power walking. Arrived back at Fisherman's Wharf looking for a restaurant that had been recommended. Yet more good food. Fisherman's Wharf area is a mixture of working port and the tacky side of Blackpool! It really is that bad in parts; given how exciting and interesting other areas of SF are, this is the pits!

The highlight of the day was the night trip to Alcatraz. Everyone who has been there says how good it is and neither of us were disappointed. It was made all the more atmospheric by a lumpy sea and grey sky which seemed to emphasise the isolation. The thought of a mile and a half swim in cold, current-ripped water being the only means of escape brings home why they put the bad guys there in the first place. Can't recommend the tour enough, especially going at night; so atmospheric - you could feel the history at every turn and almost hear and smell the presence of the prisoners. The tour started with a spoken introduction to the island and then we were each given a headset and audio tour which was voiced by ex-prisoners and -guards. We finished by listened to a guide demonstrate the opening and closing of the cell doors; again it brought the experience home. Helen has added a new fear: being left behind on Alcatraz for the night!

A low-key day by choice. Slow start and no plan to repeat the walking bloody miles routine. Highlight has to be finding Castro. The guide makes it very clear that it is the gay centre of SF and there is no doubt once you get there. The gay pride colours are to be seen on every lamppost and flags fly high and proud. It's a great places with a really buzzing atmosphere. The local theatre was running the sing-a-long sound of music show and you could just imagine the costumes and theatrics ... Went on to the Filmore area to see My Week with Marylyn at a cinema there. Good film. Had the experience of American popcorn: hot combined with salt and melted butter - great at first but even the smallest bag defeated me! Found yet another fabulous restaurant - we seem to be eating our way round SF.

We only planned two specific things in SF, Alcatraz being one and today's Chinese alleyway tour being the second. Anyone coming to this city should take the alleyway tour. The tours are run as part of a youth/community project and are led by young people who have grown up in Chinatown. Such a good time. The young woman who took us round was lovely and gave us loads of information and history in a really friendly way. There were only the two of us on the tour so we had loads of chances to ask questions and chat about life in the city. Learned so much about the growth of the Chinese population and community. We get so much about the oppression of Black Americans but hear nothing about the awful oppression off Asian Americans.

And then it all went downhill ... Went to look for a couple of wine bars which we never found; wondered around Mission looking for somewhere interesting to eat and didn't find anywhere; found a Mexican restaurant where we discovered Margaritas; went next door to a cocktail bar serving a million variations on the Martini theme; staggered back to hotel. Oh dear.

Last day in SF. Mixed feelings: sad to be leaving the most fantastic city; ready to be moving on. As always happens on the moving on day, we ended up killing time. We had promised ourselves one big American breakfast before we left and the long queues outside Sears, next to our hotel, seemed recommendation enough. unfortunately the Margaritas and Martinis from the night before meant we couldn't really do it justice. We wanted to do a final cable car ride so after packing we jumped on, stood on the running board and hung on for dear life back to North Beach, the area we visited on our first day to take in the coffee shops and sit in the sun. Lunch was at Lori's Dinner. It was like walking into a 50's film set with red leather benches, booths, juke boxes, Marylyn memorabilia and even a Ford Edsel car. Great Way to end our stay in this amazing city.